napa cabbagenapa cabbage- picture from Maangchi

Food & Climate

Climate change scenarios project the farmed area in South Korea to shrink dramatically in the next 25 years to just 44 hectares, with no napa cabbage grown in the highlands by 2090, According to the Rural Development Administration, a state farming think tank.

Napa cabbage thrives in cooler climates, and is usually planted in mountainous regions where temperatures during the key growing summer season once rarely rose above 25 Celsius (77 Fahrenheit), according to a report seen by “Food & Climate” platform.

Warmer weather

Studies show that warmer weather brought about by climate change is now threatening these crops, so much so that South Korea might not be able to grow napa cabbage one day due to the intensifying heat.

“We hope these predictions don’t come to pass,” plant pathologist and virologist Lee Young-gyu said.

“Cabbage likes to grow in cool climate and adapts to a very narrow band of temperatures,” Lee said. “The optimal temperatures are between 18 and 21 Celsius”.

South Korea’s famous kimchi is falling victim to climate change, with scientists, farmers and manufacturers saying the quality and quantity of the napa cabbage that is pickled to make the ubiquitous dish is suffering due to rising temperatures.

In the fields and in kitchens – both commercial and domestic – farmers and kimchi makers are already feeling the change, according to “Reuters”.

Spicy, fermented kimchi is made from other vegetables such as radish, cucumber and green onion, but the most popular dish remains cabbage-based.

Describing the effect of higher temperatures on the vegetable, Lee Ha-yeon, who holds the designation of Kimchi Master from the Agriculture Ministry, said the heart of the cabbage “goes bad, and the root becomes mushy.”

“If this continues, then in the summer time we might have to give up cabbage kimchi,” said Lee, whose title reflects her contribution to food culture.

Data from the government statistics agency shows the area of highland cabbage farmed last year was less than half of what it was 20 years ago: 3,995 hectares compared to 8,796 hectares.

Researchers cite higher temperatures, unpredictable heavy rains and pests that become more difficult to control in the warmer and longer summers as the cause for the crop shrinkage.

A fungal infection that wilts the plant has also been particularly troublesome for farmers because it only becomes apparent very close to harvest.

Climate change adds challenges

Climate change adds to the challenges facing South Korea’s kimchi industry, which is already battling lower-priced imports from China, which are mostly served in restaurants.

Customs data released on Monday showed kimchi imports through the end of July was up 6.9% at $98.5 million this year, almost all of it from China and the highest ever for the period.

So far, the government has relied on massive climate-controlled storage to prevent price spikes and shortages. Scientists are also racing to develop crop varieties that can grow in warmer climates and that are more resilient to large fluctuations in rainfall and infections.

But farmers like Kim Si-gap, 71, who has worked in the cabbage fields of the eastern region of Gangneung all his life, fear these varieties will be more expensive to grow in addition to not tasting quite right.

“When we see the reports that there will come a time in Korea when we can no longer grow cabbage, it was shocking on the one hand and also sad at the same time,” Kim said.

“Kimchi is something we cannot not have on the table. What are we going to do if this happens?”

Cabbage, which also is a staple vegetable for all Malaysians in predominantly a temperate climate plant, needs plenty of sunshine and a cool temperature.

That’s why its most suitable cultivation land is in Cameron Highlands, Ranau, and Lojing, but Mardi under the guidance of the Ministry of Agriculture and Food Industries has made a breakthrough in cultivating the high-yielding vegetable in lowlands because of rising demand and scarcity of land in highlands.  Something unheard of in the past in Malaysia, according to “business today”.

According to Datuk Seri Dr. Ronald Kiandee, Minister of Agriculture and Industry Food the farm mechanization package for lowland cabbage production will be able to increase the country’s cabbage production given the manual labour and high operation costs given the breadth of land that needs to be cultivated. He also added that the heat-resistant’ varieties allow the round cabbage to be grown in low ground areas with high temperature, further guaranteeing local supply as well as reducing import dependence.

Previously, MARDI has also developed the technology of growing cauliflower in lowland which was launched by the Minister in October, 2020.